By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Trapper frame #6 question.
OK, so I've rebuilt my first drift boat, floated it once, then immediately started on another boat as soon as I got home...literally.
I'm building "The Trapper" from the book with on-hand and construction grade materials. I had a bunch of quality1x4 redwood trim, so that's what the frames are being made of (comments on redwood welcome).
My question is: as I read the book, the bevel for the side frames on frame #6 is "9" degrees, however, it measures closer to "4" degrees. Can anyone out there who has built the trapper let me know what the correct side bevel for frame #4 is? It's really important I find this out as soon as possible as if I cant finish that frame, I may be forced to work on some meaningless home maintenance project at the descretion of my wife. Please help!
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on -
Troy,
When you say "measure" are you measuring the drawing in the book? I don't have my original redlined plans handy, but I will look tonight. I would follow the table with bevels.
Keep your hand plane handy and sharp. Many times building tortured plywood boats, the wood will decide things for itself. You can tweak and correct any bevel issues at the time of build. Remember, the flare of these boats will change the bevel slightly up the side members.
Dave
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Permalink Reply by Troy Nicolls on -
The problem for me is I can't tell if the written number on the drawing in the book is a 9 or a 4. It looks more like a 9 to me, but when I measure the angle as drawn in the plan view, it measures more like 4 deg. Yes, in any case, I expect to have to use my plane. I gotta go...my wife's giving me that "what are you doing" look as she walks toward the list on the frig.
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Permalink Reply by Troy Nicolls on
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Crap. While trying to keep out of sight and out of mind, I just cut it at 4 degrees. Oh well, I can adjust later if necessary. All the frames are done. I'm still planning on keeping the weight down for this first build. I'm leaning strongly toward an oil finish inside and out. Might even leave out the front seat and just use and ice chest for a seat. Also still planning on making the rowers seat adjustable per your recommendation.
Thank you Dave for your interest.
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Permalink Reply by mark hilbert on -
Troy, can't wait to see you boat with it's redwood splines should look awesome. I don't think leaving out the front seat will really save that much weight, plus where will you sit when the wife is rowing? Actually I put my cooler where my rowing seat is and just framed it in on my RR.
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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on
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keep it light with zero or plywood floorboards.
You're ok- 4 degrees? no sweat. You can still shave it off for a perfect fit when you build the hull.
Coolers are overrated- buy one of those beer helmets! haha.
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Permalink Reply by Lee Pendergrast on -
Hi,
I just built a trapper and didn't have that problem with the angle on frame #6. I am building another one right now. My problems were in the transom (Mine needed to be about 2 1/2 in wider and the side bevel angle needed to be 27') On frame #4, I have a 5 1/2' angle. I have a 27' frame angle , 2 1/2 bottom angle a 41" bottom lenglh and a 23 1/2 side length. I used those angles in the book except for the transom and my boat is 3/4 inch short because the scarf joint took 3 inches and I took that out on the transom end.
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