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Chris King
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  • Redding, CA
  • United States
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Hydrotek?
6 Replies

Started this discussion. Last reply by Chris King Aug 14, 2009.

In need of direction
7 Replies

Started this discussion. Last reply by Randy Dersham Mar 26, 2009.

 

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Chris King replied to Chris King's discussion Hydrotek?
"Thanks Randy, I'm actually talking to Almquist in Arcata per your recomendation. They have been very helpfull as has this sight. I don't know if you have ever been there but, wow what a wood working store! As my project nears beginig I…"
Aug 14, 2009
Lawrence E. Long replied to Chris King's discussion Hydrotek?
"Cris: I haved used Hydrotec for 4 canoes and a peapod. From 4mm to 12mm. All high quality- but as Dave Z says dont go near the 6536 grade-voids! One thing about the Merranti I found was the color sometimes varies from sheet to sheet-creamish to…"
Aug 14, 2009
Chris King replied to Chris King's discussion Hydrotek?
"Thanks for you replies. Dave, I have been following your work and it is inspiring to say the least. I plan to build the Rapid robert in Roger's book. Is there any reason you would not use hydrotek on the bottom with a 1/4 inck doug fir shoe?…"
Aug 13, 2009
Dave Z replied to Chris King's discussion Hydrotek?
"I can vouch for Hydrotek.. It is about the same weight as Doug fir. 6mm is about 1.4". 1/4" Doug fir will be three plies, Hydrotek will be 5 plies. I built two fir boats, and the last one was a Hydrotek. I used 6mm on the sides, and…"
Aug 12, 2009
Steve Sobba replied to Chris King's discussion Hydrotek?
"Chris, I am new to all this boat building.. well about 15 months new. I am using the Hydrotek ,meranti plywood, for my 18 foot Don Hill from plans. It was not as pricey as sapple and I like the richness of the color and quality.(? $39 a 4x8 1/4…"
Aug 12, 2009
Chris King posted a discussion

Hydotek?

My local wood supplier is recomending Hydrotek as the best plywood for my project. He also carries and can get anything but swears by the Hydrotek. Has anyone worked with it? Is oil only a sufficient finish? It is very reasonably priced and has no footballs or voids on the side that you some times see in AB Doug Fir. There are a considerable number of plys for the thickness but it appears to be a bit heavy.Getting ready to start my first project. A scratch built Rapid Robert. Any help would be…See More
Aug 7, 2009
Chris King and Jason Knight are now friends
Mar 26, 2009
Chris King posted a discussion

In need of direction

Hi everyone,My name is Chris and I have been a guide and casting instructor for many years in Redding, CA. I got out of the industry roughly a year ago and now have decided that it was time to have the boat I always wanted. I am in a place where my clients will no longer beat up my boat so I am ready to ditch the tupperware and go wood.I just finished reading Roger Fletcher's book and I have been dreamming of building a boat for as long as I've been fishing in the West.I have read the…See More
Mar 25, 2009
Chris King is now a member of Wooden Boat People
Mar 25, 2009

Profile Information

Hometown:
Redding, CA
About Me:
10 years as a fly fishing guide. A life time as a fly fishing bum.
Boats I own:
no wood yet

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At 4:16pm on July 20, 2009, lhedrick said…
I think the forum at montana-riverboats.com will get you more information since it is more of a frameless S&G set of builders.


Forgot to mention fiberglass what will be the inside face of the side pieces and sand them before putting them on the frames.

As for the process. The fillets will come later. What you need to do is get the sides on to the temporary frames. Before glueing on the bottom take a long look at the hull from a lot of angles. Follow the lines, you wand it to be straight and symmetrical. Use clamps and straps to pull it to where you want it before you glue on the bottom. The bottom will hold it in place.

Next trace and cut out the bottom. Fiber glass what will become the inside of the bottom and another coat of epoxy to fill the weave. After the bottom is cut out and glassed paint epoxy on the bottom edge of the sides, the chine edge, the end grain of the plywood. Paint epoxy on the matching face of the bottom panel. Mix more epoxy and thicken up this batch with ground glass fiber or wood flour about the consistency of peanut butter. Trowel the thickened epoxy on the the bottom edge of the sides. Lift the bottom and put it in place. A few other hands will make this easier. You can now wire it up or just set weights on the edge. Whatever it takes to make contact is all you need.

The next day when the epoxy has cured, remove all the weights, cut the wires, remove the clamps etc. The bottom will now be secure. Get a rasp or grinder and round over the chine edge. Round over to something like the curve on a nickel coin. You can't glass over a hard edge.

Now proceed with the fiberglass cloth.

1 layer of cloth on the bottom lapped 2 inches over the chine
1 layer of cloth on the sides lapped 2 inches over the chine
1 more layer of cloth on the bottom lapped 2 inches over the chine again.

1 layer of 10 Oz 6 inch glass tape stem to stern.
1 layer of 12 Oz 6 inch bi-axial tape starting 3 foot from the stern up 3 foot from the stem.

For the bottom you can use kevlar on the outside for the first layer if you want to spend the extra money.


When all this is done roll the boat over and go to work on the inside. Fillet the inside of the chine. I use a 1 inch putty knife. Another layer of 10 Oz Cloth on the inside bottom. I layer of glass tape stem to stern. Cover with another layer of bi-axial tape along the center of the boat again this time on the inside.

You want the chine to be tough.

All this is easy, it just takes some time. To learn more about epoxy and fiberglass checkout the information at raka.com
At 2:00pm on July 20, 2009, lhedrick said…
Rogers book shows the Rapid Robert has 5 frames.

Just make the frames out of something like 1X5 pine. Don't bother to bevel the sides. You can put 2X4 legs on frames 2 and 4, attach the sides to those and then start bending it to shape by inserting additional frames and screwing them in place. Make and attach the stem by pulling it together with straps and clamps. Attach the stem to one side panel then after the epoxy has cured together pull it together. After the transom has been installed then just set the bottom panel on top, trace it out, cut then glue it down.

The build should be the same process and then after you flip it over remove the frames. ------

I have a friend who built a Rapid Robert and this year he took it down Westwater Canyon on the Colorado River above Moab Utah. Westwater is a Class IV run. Although I wouldn't recommend taking an open boat down Westwater he did fine. It's a great design and I plan on building one in the next year of so. Just completing a new 16 footer. Should be ready for the water next week.
At 8:13am on March 26, 2009, Jason Knight said…
Welcome Chris!
At 6:52am on March 26, 2009, Greg Hatten said…
Welcome to the site, Chris. Hope you enjoy all the wooden boat chatter....
Greg
 
 
 

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