By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
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Steve Sobba
- Male
- Wichita, KS
- United States
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Steve Sobba's Discussions
Rub Strip attachment
Replied Feb 6
Steve Sobba's Page
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Well, I need to be Flogged for putting 2 small brads through the nylon parachute cord into the oars I used for the wrap. I built my own oars out of ash. So This Is a Big NO NO ??***** The author of the book I used suggested this very technique. Mayb…
Thanks Randy, I was just going to email you that "V" wanted a true friendship with me... Valentines day and all I quess? Thought it was alittle strange and could not find VOC in the directory of members. I did not answer... over the last month have…
Mr. Finnell, Making my oars for my driftboat was one of my favorite parts of the project. I steill have enough ash to make a fourth oar when weather gets warmer. Did you use plans? Is that spruce ? Yours look great! Please post more pictures when yo…
Thanks gentlemen for the further suggestions . I ended up the sat. after thanksgiving applying the rub strips with ss screws as per plans. I had 2 coats of epoxy and several coats of varnish... drilled pilot holes and coated the screws with 3M5200 h…
Bronze Screws.
Paint the edges well or seal with epoxy. Otherwise they will drink alot.
Then install them and paint/varnish over them and the hull sides again.
No sealant or glue.
Steve, I restored my Keith Steele driftboat in 1980. Because some neighborhood kids knocked some holes through the hull(above the rubbing strakes) I had to patch them with layers of 7oz. glass cloth and isophathalic resin. After I ground these down…
Congratulations to you both. We just passed 30th anniversary marker this fall. Thanks for your input, pictures and stories this year. To everyone a Blessed 2010. Steve Sobba
Steve,
Looks wonderful. What a beautiful boat. I wish you many wonderful trips on the water.
jdr
Robb, Over all I enjoyed the build . The curves and all were just the right amount that I did not have to steam any wood... most of that work was done in the warmer humid weather... did have a crack a couple of days after installing the chine at sta…
Thanks for all the comments Greg Scott and Robb
.
Just finished my first boat ever..Don Hill 18' Fly fisherman... If I had it to do over I would have studied more or wished to have found this site... would give myself better center line points between bow and transom and secured those to maintain t…
Steve, I live just north of Liberty in Kearney. Small world.
Steve,
That is one good lookin' boat! Hope the ice melts soon for your sake...
I am having Mike Baker of www.BakerWoodDriftBoats.com build me the basic hull of a Don Hill 18 footer with some slight modifications to the hull, mainly adding 3 inches…
Way to go Steve... very nice boat!! Really like those seats. Can't wait to see pictures in the water. Enjoy that first float.
GH
Scott, Sounds good to me. Our son lives around Liberty Mo. We go there fairly often. Thanks Steve
Steve,
Great job on the boat, Congrats just isn't enough when you complete such a great project. We should plan a get together and do a float this spring. I should have my boat done by then. I am in KC.
Scott
scott@heplerphoto.com
Profile Information
- Hometown:
- Fowler, Ks
- About Me:
- Wanted a new wood work challenge, started drift boat project a year ago, May 2008, and I really was taken by the lines of the McKinze River Drift Boat. Have built parts of experimental airplanes remolded homes, and built a 51 chevy truck with one of my sons.
- Boats I own:
- 3/4 completed 18 foot drift boat
Steve Sobba's Photos
Comment Wall (7 comments)
- At 1:35pm on December 13, 2009,
Mike Baker said… - Hey Steve,
Your boat turned out great! I am part way into building the same boat, I have a question if you don't mind. The plans say on rib #8 that there are two angles for the rib, I am sure when I get to it it will be clear but I have been wondering what that is all about. Also did you go with the 3/4" thick chine or go a little thinner, because I know those Don Hill boats really bend at around rib 8.
Thanx for any info you want to provide
Mike
- At 6:42pm on September 13, 2009,
Jonathan Clarke said… - I always tell people to get three confirmations before they believe anything they read on the internet. Turns, out that's true for the stuff I write, too. The tubing o.d. is 2.5", not 3", but it is more or less .0625" wall. Stone is the brand name on the bushing, which is made of some high tech plastic or another. I bought the tubing and the bushing from McMaster Carr, an industrial mail order place in Chicago, although I used to buy them many years ago at an industrial supply place in Minneapolis. I don't have a McMaster Carr P/N for the tubing now, but I recently redid my setup with a half inch axle. I used their tube bushings P/N 60565K26 with reducer bushings P/N 2705T33. You may not want to order from them, but their web site should help you decide what you want if you can at least reference those numbers.
- At 7:38pm on June 23, 2009,
Jesse Ronnow said…
- Steven,
Kudos to you for ingenuity. They look great. You will have to let me know what you think of them after you get the boat on the water. I wish I could be more help on the oars question, that's one area I need to work on a bit.
Tight lines,
Jesse
- At 4:30am on June 22, 2009,
Jason Knight said… - Steven,
The exterior of my boat is a few coats of Z-Spar (2015) Captains Varnish over epoxy. The interior is just oiled. This was my first time varnishing a boat - and if I had to do it over, I would have built up a few coats of varnish on the panels before construction while they were laying flat - but I was not sure how I wanted to finish the exterior until I had it built... The Captains seemed to roll and tip pretty well - though I do not really have a means for comparison.
You have a great looking project there! Love those front seats too...
- At 9:54pm on June 19, 2009,
Jesse Ronnow said…
- Steven,
The boat is beautiful. If I may, did you design the front seat yourself? If so may I ask how? I love it.
Jesse
- At 5:05pm on June 7, 2009,
Jesse Ronnow said…
- Steven,
It is Line-X truck bed liner. The stuff is indestructible. Having said that their are a couple of issue you need to be aware of. 1st off, it weighs in at about .7 lbs per square foot and is heavier than most other options (glass Kevlar, UHMW). 2nd, it is not the slickest stuff on the market. 3rd, once the stuff goes on, it's not coming off. Well it may come off but chances are you are going to have to replace the surface it is attached to. Because of this last one, it is not recommended that you cover the chine cap... that is if you are building a framed boat. The chine cap generally takes the hardest beating and therefore may need to be replaced multiple times during the life of a boat.
I chose to use the stuff for a couple of reasons. #1, my boat is nearly 30 years old and I wanted to make sure that there was going to be no leaking, or seeping at all; mission accomplished. #2, because the stuff is indestructible. Even though it is not supper slick, which by the way is wonderful when sliding over rocks and gravel bars, it does not tear, rip, crack or break down at all. And it does a good job in the sliding department, just not as good as say Kevlar. #3 I only use this boat on the very clam (with respect to rapids) rivers of the Henry's Fork, South Fork of the Snake and Madison rivers. Therefore the concerns at this late stage of her life regarding the need to change the chine cap are pretty minimal.
I am planning on building another boat and will probably use the stuff again, however will only be on the bottom of the boat. I will purposely leave the chine cap exposed in case I need to replace it.
Man that was long winded, I hope some of that was helpful. Good luck with your decision and please let me know if you have any other questions.
Tight lines,
Jesse
P.S. what rivers are you planning on floating in KS?
- At 10:34am on May 31, 2009,
Randy Dersham said… - Welcome Steven, Post us some photos. It's always fun to watch the projects take shape. I hope you enjoy the site.
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